In the church of the Holy Sepulcher, in Jerusalem, in the main part of the Catholikon, the Greek Orthodox main church, there is a strange vase looking thing about three feet high called the “omphalos.” Omphalos is the Greek word for navel, or belly button, for those who think navel has to do with ships. It is claimed that here lies the very center of the world.
I
once read in a guide book that to claim to be the center of the world is a
statement that is at all points true, the world being a sphere. I wish I could
tell you what the omphalos in Jerusalem is and whence it comes, but I cannot.
Perhaps it is an old lawn ornament about which someone once said, “Oh, put it
over there until we figure out what to do with it.” That is a very foolish thing to say. Once
something is located in the church of the Holy Sepulcher it becomes very
important and to move it takes negotiations with 5 major religious groups and
the Israeli government.
There
is a ladder leaning up against a window on the ledge over the main entrance to
the church. It is called the immovable ladder. No one knows how it got there or
when, but heaven forefend that it should be moved now. A few years back someone
unknown moved it to the other end of the ledge, causing an international and
inter-religious crisis that was resolved only when the ladder had been moved
back to its original place of uselessness. It is there still, serving no actual
purpose. There is a moral here, but I’m not sure what it is. Anyway, the navel
of the world is definitely right where it has been as long as I can
remember.
Though
many places claim to be the center of the world, this particular center of the
world has a good claim to the name. Until Christopher Columbus or the Basques
or the space aliens discovered the Americas, the Holy Land was the land bridge
where Africa, Asia and Europe met. If you wanted to invade your neighbor, the
Holy Land was right on your path. The Assyrians invaded Egypt, the Hittites
invaded Egypt, the Egyptians, indeed the Hittites and Alexander the Great
invaded everybody all by tromping through the Holy Land, much to the chagrin
and inconvenience of the locals. In fact, the geography of the country is a
sort of invasion.
The
African tectonic plate is pushing up into Europe. The Arabian tectonic plate is
pushing over into Africa, or something like that. The result is that Jerusalem
is a city in the hills 2,500 feet above sea level. Go due east almost 15 miles and down 3,400
feet and you come to Jericho and a little further to the Dead Sea which is
1,400 feet below sea level. It is the lowest place on the face of the earth,
hot as blazes and dry as a bone.
The
Sea of Galilee is the lowest fresh water lake in the world and is about 700
feet below sea level. It is lush and green and tropical, abundant with life.
The Jordan River flows out of the Sea of Galilee into the Dead Sea where its
waters evaporate leaving nothing behind but salt and wasteland. Go straight up 3,400 feet through fifteen
miles of desert and you come to the Judean hills, and you cross over them into
the basin of the Mediterranean Sea and suddenly it is wet and green and rich.
The
Judean hills are pushed up right down in the middle of the land, separating
brown and rocky desert from green farms. On the crest of this ridge of steep
hills sits Jerusalem like a crown. In the far north, these hills turn into real
mountains beginning with snow-capped Mt. Hermon at almost 10,000 feet. All these
deserts, salt flat mountains, invading armies, religious prophets and millennia
of history, are in a place not much larger than a good sized metropolitan area
in the USA.
From
Mt. Hermon in the far North to Beersheba on the edge of the southern desert is
only 200 miles. From Jerusalem to Capernaum is only about 80 miles and this in
a county that is no more than fifty miles wide. The Holy Land, packed with
history and faith is tiny. The “Sea” of Galilee is a moderate sized lake, 13
miles long and 8 miles wide. It too is about 700 feet below sea level. On the northwest corner of the Sea of Galilee
perches the Gospel Triangle formed by three towns where Jesus did most of his
preaching and healing, Capernaum to Korazin to Bethsaida two miles by four
miles by five miles as the crow flies, more or less.
Once
upon a time, the Creator of the universe, the Being who is the source of being,
fixed His gaze on this little galaxy, on a little star at the edge of this
little galaxy, and a speck of dust spinning around that little star, on a
little town called “Little Shoot” (Nazareth
in Hebrew) in a troubled little country. He fixed His gaze on a little girl
from a poor family and “the Word Became Flesh and Dwelt Among Us, all in a
little place that really was the center of the world.
Rev.
Know-it-all